Saturday July 28th

Today I went to Yoyogi National Gymnasium (former Olympic venue) for the JKS All-Japan Championships.  I stopped at Jonathan's in Sugamo on my way for breakfast! 

I used the Yamanote Line to Harajuku and from there it was a short walk to the venue.  As I excited the JR railway station there was a group of people who looked to be dressed up as some kind of warriors practicing a routine with great detail and precision.  I didn't stop for long because the sun was blistering hot.  It was only 10am!




"Warriors" practicing their routine


When I got to Yoyogi I realised that there was a big Kyokushinkai tournament on in the 11,000 stadium.  There were 11 tatami on the floor but the stands were sparsely populated.

13th JKS All-Japan Championships banner

 

Yoyogi National Stadium



I took the short walk across to the smaller, 6,000+ seater Yoyogi Gymnasium.  The JKS championships were being held here.  The place was absolutely buzzing when I went in.  The stands were almost full with spectators and competitors!  As I went in the door I met Matsue Sensei and then Inada Sensei.  All of the Hombu Dojo instructors were very busy all day.  They were wired up with ear pieces and radios as they ran around constantly making sure that everything was going smoothly and that their Sempai's (seniors) were left wanting for nothing.

Inada Sensei directing the other Hombu Dojo Sensei's from the balcony in order to ensure that the opening ceremony runs without a glitch.

The one thing that I always notice about competitions in Japan is that everybody competes.  Nobody makes excuses.  Young, old, beginner or advanced... they all get into the spirit of the occasion!  It's about getting out there and giving it your best shot!  People don't pass any judgement if somebody performs poorly or forgets part of a kata... It's the competing that matters!  That's my understanding anyway!

Kagawa Sensei addresses the competitors

There were about nine tatami (mats or competition areas) being used in the early morning.   It was just kids competing today.  At 12 noon, all competition stopped and the opening ceremony took place.  This was very lively as all the competitors marched in under their dojo banner.  There was music and clapping taking place as everybody was welcomed.  Kagawa Sensei and all the senior JKS officials including Yagi Sensei, Muriyama Sensei and Tanaka Sensei sat at the top tables.  It was very interesting to see the interaction between these people throughout the day and how the Sempai / Kohai tradition was being observed. 

Kai Sensei carried the official flag and said aloud some code or motto for the championships as he was the grand Kumite champion for last year. 

Kai Sensei with senior members from the Hombu dojo

Kagawa Sensei, Muriyama Sensei and a few others gave speeches during the ceremony.  It was concluded in spectacular fashion with a demonstration by three members of the Japan National Team (from Teikyo University).  They were unbelievably flawless as they performed Sochin and Unsu to perfection in team kata.  The speed, sharpness, timing and precision of movement was something to behold!  They rounded off their demonstration with a practical display (bunkai) for Unsu.  It was brilliantly dynamic and dramatic!


Taka-San, who I spoke about in the blog last year when I was in Tokyo saw me in the stand and came over to say hello.  He's the guy who Inada Sensei insited that I beat to the ground in morning training!  He's in his last year of medical school and will soon leave for Okinawa to do his residency training.  He said that he's looking forward to training with me over the next two weeks!  He told me that he failed his black belt grading in June.  He missed a part of one of the Heian kata's.  Simple mistake he said but it wasn't good enough!  You don't get anything easily in Japan!  Taka is very good friends with the younger dojo instructors such as Kai Sensei and Nagaki Sensei and he's always playing soccer and socialising with them.  It counts for nothing when you're being examined!!  Taka asked me why I wasn't competing and I explained that I only decided to come back to Japan last week.  Too late for entry at that stage.

The competition resumed after the ceremony as both kata and kumite for kids took place.  It was very funny to watch Yamaguchi Sensei.  He was excitable all day as he seemed to be looking out for his students who were competing!  He would almost jump up and down with pride when any of his kids won a match.  When they lost he would put on a sort of bewildered expression...  I was bursting myself laughing!  It was great to see that he was taking so much interest and pride in his students though!  The overall standard today was exceptionally high.  It is very obvious that these kids love their training and practice an awful lot.  It was also great to see families competing in team kata together.  It was also really good to see wheelchair kata being performed.  I couldn't get over how flexible these competitors were in their upper body and how they used this flexibility to evade, block and strike opponents.

I was back in Nippori around 4pm.  I went for some noodles at the local restaurant.

I followed that with some kata training in the local park.  It has become a little overgrown since I was here last year!  The first thing I said was... "where did the grass come from?!".  I still managed to find a spot for about 40 minutes!

I'll head back to Yoyogi early tomorrow morning.  The seniors compete tomorrow.  It should be really good!  I'm excited to watch it!  I fancy Kai Sensei to do really well.  He looks brilliant in the dojo at the moment. 

Friday July 27th

There was no training at the dojo today because the All-Japan Championships take place tomorrow and Sunday.  The rest was very welcome as I'm still struggling to overcome jet lag.  Three sessions within 36 hours of arriving in Japan was very difficult!  I headed off an adventure to the main Mizuno store in Ochanomizu, Tokyo when I got up this morning.  It was a little tricky getting there but between a map and my Suica card I managed just fine.  Mizuno the label for the Japan national team (JKF) and the Japan Olympic squad.  I thought that there would be lots of merchandise at the store but I was disappointed to be honest!  Below are a couple of photographs of Ochanomizu and the nearby construction taking place at Meiji University.

I didn't realise until today how expensive it has become to visit Japan.  The Euro is absolutely crippling us!  See the figure below!  In the summer of 2008 one would have got about 170 Yen for 1 Euro.  Today you will only get 96 Yen for 1 Euro!  So... the cost of visiting Japan has almost doubled!!  It's crazy when you consider that a litre of milk costs 248 Yen in the local 7-11 store.  That's €2.60!!  Don't get me wrong... I'm not complaining.  It's just a notable observation!

I had some sweet and sour pork for my lunch in a local restaurant in Nippori this afternoon.  It's the exact same staff there as last year!  While I was eating my dinner the restaurant became quiet and the chefs were just standing, staring at the walls inside in the kitchen.  No banter going on.... All very serious! 

I rested for a couple of hours in the afternoon and then headed to Jonathan's Restaurant in Sugamo with my "Japanese for Beginners" book to enjoy dinner and the drinks bar.  P90X Stretching for an hour to help keep my muscles lengthened!  I'll head to Yoyogi National Stadium tomorrow to watch the All-Japan Championships.  Time for the leaba now. 



Thursday July 26th

It is extremely hot and humid here in Tokyo...  There is air conditioning in the dojo...  But they generally don't turn it on... It helps make the training much more difficult, bordering on treacherous at times!  Although, there is a cut-back on electricity usage here in Japan because the nuclear reactors have been shut down.  There is notices everywhere asking people to conserve electricty.  (Photograph of the main street in Sugamo below as I was walking to the dojo.)

I slept okay last night.  The air conditioning in my room is pretty noisy but when I turned it off on a couple of occasions the room became unbearably humid within five minutes. When I arrived at the dojo this morning I was greeted by Ishimine Sensei and Watanabe Sensei.  Ishimine Sensei was anxious to know how long I was back in Japan for.  Yamaguchi Sensei and Nagaki Sensei took the 10.30am - 11.30am session.  Nagaki Sensei took the first half an hour where he concentrated on kihon.  Kizami - gyaku -zuki (40 times each side), maegeri (leg back) kizami, gyaku zuki (40 times each side), Mae geri, yoko geri (to the side) then mawashi-geri (20 times each side).  Nagaki Sensei was emphasising the importance of bringing the kicking leg for mawashi-geri back along the same course that it started out on. We did then ido-kihon up and down the dojo for about ten minutes.  Thankfully, Yamaguchi Sensei asked Nagaki Sensei to give us a break and have a drink. 

Yamaguch Sensei took the remaining 30 minutes.  We did kata.  Hiean Shodan, Junro Shodan, Heian Nidan, Junro Nidan, Heian Sandan and Junro Godan.  Yamaguchi Sensei was stressing the importance of the turn after the second kiai in both Junro Shodan and Junro Nidan.  Junro Shodan - step up to feet shoulder with apart and then turn into uchi uke in kokutsu dachi.  In contrast, the turn in Junro Nidan is come up through the centre and go into kiba dachi before turning uchi-uke in neko-ashi dachi.  We did each of the kata's slowly to teh count once and then fast one count.  Before the class started, almost all of the Sensei's came into the dojo and I made sure that I greeted each of them with a deep bow and a good "Oss!".  Inada Sensei (he gave me a smile while I think he was probably think he was probably conjuring up a plan for me for his next lesson), Makita Sensei and Kanayama Sensei.

As I was walking from the dojo through Sugamo, I was sweating profusely... my tee shirt was saturated and my hair drenched!  When I turned the corner to head down the main street I met Kagawa Sensei.  He saw me a mile off and I greeted him with a deep bow. Awkward!  I got a Suica card at Sugamo Station before I headed back to Nippori.  This is a Japan Rail commuter pass.  It will save me hassle of buying tickets for each journey.  It's specifically for my daily journeys from Nippori to Sugamo.  In addition to that I can put credit on it for when I go outside that zone.  This is very handy as the prices and station names are usually in Japanese at the stations and you wouldn't know what price you have to pay.  This way it will just deduct the correct amount each time. Below is a picture of the Yamanote Line at Sugamo Station and my new Suica card!

When I got back to Nippori I had to meet Kyoko-san (the landlord for the apartment that I'm staying in).  I had to give her the remainder of the rent in addition to a photocopy of my passport which I copied at the local 7-11 store.  I slept for about three hours in the afternoon.  Still trying to recover from yesterday’s flight and the heat just knocks the stuffing out of you here.  I have added a picture of the area in Nippori where I'm staying.  The street you can see here is pedestrianised and lined with small shops and restaurants.  A really nice place.

I headed back for training at the dojo from 7-8pm.  It just would not be possible to do the two hours in the evening.  I actually think that it would be dangerous!  Kagawa Sensei took this class.  It was all adults and a mixture of low grades and black belts.  Watanabe Sensei (who is a new kenshusei) took the beginner grades for the first 30 minutes while Kagawa Sensei took us.  We started off with about fifty squats in shiko-dachi where an emphasis was placed on keeping a straight back, tail bone in while making sure that the knees don't collapse inside.  Kagawa Sensei also wanted us to squeeze as we neared the bottom of the movement and use this to rebound back up.  We then did kihon, a lot of which was the same as this morning with Nagaki Sensei.  We did a lot of ido-kihon where Kagawa Sensei was really stressing the importance of creating kime from the abdomen.  Kagawa Sensei told me to concentrate more on extending my second punch in sanban-zuki.  I tended to be a bit  short.  Everything long and fully extend!  Another technique for example was - step forward mae-geri, back leg mae-geri (and return to behind) then mae-geri off the front leg.  We did all the Heian kata's and Tekki Shodan to finish.  Kagawa Sensei was constantly reminding us to make our techniques long.  One example was the first three moves in Hiean Nidan.  He was saying that people tend to make these short with no hip movement and that this is no good.  Instead we were told to focus on engaging the hip properly for each of the movements.  Same for Tekki Shodan.  

We finished the class off with some ippon kumite.  I faced one of the older guys in the dojo.  Maybe mid fifties.  Kagawa Sensei demonstrated the movements first of all.  He seemed quite relaxed and wasn't going in very fast.  I thought that I would replicate the same.  So... I started with Jodan zuki - nice and relaxed... not flying in.  Kagawa Sensei stopped me and asked me to do it again... This time fast!  Okay...!  I launched myself into Jodan and put the gut under pressure.  I smacked him with chudan... Kagawa Sensei looking on all the time.  Mae-geri, yoko-geri, mawashi-geri and ushiro-geri... still in good and strong.  I made the guy work hard and caught him with a couple.  We were really struggling with the floor at this stage.  Next up.. it was my turn to defend.. Kagawa Sensei still looking on eagerly... I was thinking what way this guy would attack me... He looked like an older Nagaki Sensei!  First up Jodan.... BANG!.. I totally miss timed the block... Welcome to Japan I guess!  That belt tuned me in straght away... He won't do THAT to me again! I had no problems defending the remainder of the techniques.  This guy was very very good and fast!  We changed partners for this three times altogether. No problems.  I gave as good as I got.

After class, I was talking with a westerner who is training at the dojo - Nicholas from France, a white belt who has been training at the dojo since December.  He lives and works in Tokyo and has excellent Japanese.  Actually there is a younger guy from Kuwait who is also training at the dojo for the summer. Ahmad is his name.  His mother is Japanese.  He doesn't seem to be JKS as he doesn't know the Junro kata.  He's a good guy though and trains hard.  He just trains in the mornings!  Probably wise!

After training, I stayed around the dojo for about 20 minutes taking with the members... We would all say "Otsu-kara-same-deshita" - this basically means well done for your hard training!  I stopped at Jonathan's in Sugamo for a high calorie dinner (photo below) and the much appreciated drinks bar!  I was pretty weak and tired as I got the train back to Nippori.  You can't really walk too fast around Tokyo at this time of year!  It's just way too hot!

I thought that the holder for the receipt was conveying an important message in a cool way!

No training again until next Monday morning.  The All-Japan Championships take place this weekend and the dojo closed after tonight’s class.     

July 25th, 2012 - Return to Japan

Last week I decided that the time was right to return to Japan after last years natural disaster.  During the long 11.5 hour flight, I couldn't help but ask myself the question - "What am I at.... heading back out to Japan...?".... "Will another earthquake occur?".... "Surely it would have been more relaxing and less expensive to head off on a sun holiday...?".... Anybody who has trained in Japan even for a short period of time knows that it's a physical and mental struggle.  I'm not back here to prove anything to anybody.  I'm back here because of the Japanese people and most of all the instructors at the Hombu Dojo.  They have a presence that can make even the strongest karateka nervous...while having a keen eye for detail, they expect you to give 110% at all times, they will help you if you try hard and I think that they have this ability to generate a highly charged atmosphere that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world... I respect this so much and this is why I'm back!

So since when I left Japan last year, I went into hiding in order to finish my Ph.D..  I graduated last August and I was given a lecturing position in my hometown university last January.  Thankfully my life is very good at the moment and I have an awful lot to be thankful for.

When I arrived at Nippori Station from Narita Airport today, it felt as if I never left Japan.  Strangely everything came to be automatically... I didn't have to think twice about what exit I was taking or where I was heading.  It was pretty cool to be able to recognise some local faces as well!  I was shattered when I got to my apartment.  I'm right across the corridor from where I was staying last year.  I will take some photographs tomorrow and post them.  I didn't think that I would be able to make training because I was feeling so tired.  But after about three hours sleep, I was refreshed and raring to go!  Back down to Nippori Station and the Yamanote Line to Sugamo... 6 minutes!

When I arrived at the dojo, I could hear Kanayama Sensei yelling when I opened the entrance door.  Too late to turn back now...!!!  Yamaguchi Sensei was training in the back of the class.  He came straight over and gave me a very warm greeting.  That helped to ease the nerves!  I think he was happy to see me.  Kanayama Sensei was really drilling the 6-7pm class as I was warming up by the side.  He appears to frighten the life out of the kids but has a very good way with them all the same.  They can really get the most out of the kids at the Hombu Dojo.  You cannot but admire the parent's decision in sending their kids to arguably the toughest place to train on the planet!

It was really great to see Paul, Ronnie and Sarah from JKS Scotland at the dojo tonight.  They have been here for the last 10 days and tonight was their fifteenth and final session before they head home tomorrow.  Yamaguchi Sensei took the 7-8pm class.  I was concerned about the heat and humidity and the risk of slipping... So I placed a towel by the side.  They don't every seem to turn on the air conditioning even though it's 30 degrees +....  Helps make the training harder!

Yamaguchi Sensei concentrated on kihon drills for the first thirty minutes.  Starting with gyaku-zuki, switch legs (staying in same position) - gyaku-zuki, mae-geri (leg back), kizami, gyaku-zuki.  20 times each side. From zenkutsu dachi, snap legs together into kosa-dachi, kekomi to the side and back to kosa-dachi and then return to zenkutsu-dachi.  20 times each side again.  We did something similar with ura-mawashi-geri.  Concentraing on a particular type of foot movement.  Mayashi mae-geri, stepping back gedan-barai and gyaku-zuki.  Same again 20 times each side.  We then went on to practice these type of movement through kumite drills.  One line and four people attacking one person.  The class concluded with Ni-jishiho.  Yamaguchi Sensei was emphasising long, wave type movements.  Thankfully I was able to draw my breath on a few occasions during the kata practice!

After training, Yamaguchi Sensei and Kanayama Sensei brought everybody out for dinner to mark the end of Paul, Ronnie and Sarah's time at the dojo.  It was great to get out and I put my Japanese-English dictionary to use on a few occasions!  We all said goodnight at around 10.15pm and it's time for me to say goodnight now!  Next training session is tomorrow morning at 10.30am.  I'll get up early and do some P90X Stretching!  Goodnight from Tokyo. Diarmaid  

Tuesday March 15th.. The Final Post...

After 48 hours of traveling and almost 24 hours flying, I got home to Shanagolden at around 10pm last night.  Relieved, tired, excited to see my family and friends but also an empty feeling for Japan and its people..  About a month ago when I had a couple of "bad" days and missed home I could have seen myself returning early.. However, things really improved... I managed to find a better balance... my parents were due to visit.. my thesis almost complete.. and really looking forward to training as hard as I possibly and as much as I possibly could for the last few weeks..even driving myself to a point of exhaustion!  It had never crossed my mind that I would have to return home because of a natural disaster and a worsening crisis...

Even writing this blog this afternoon at the kitchen table at home, I have mixed feelings.. Sky News on in the background with all the bad news..  I emailed Matsue Sensei at the dojo and also Inada Sensei to explain that I decided to leave Japan...Inada Sensei was special for me as you probably gathered from my blog and that is why I sent him a private email..  It all seems a little bit like a bad dream..  But on the positive side.. I have had a brilliant experience in Japan over the last two months.. I have lived the dream by training full time at the JKS Hombu Dojo.  Many things come to mind with the several falls I had due to pools of water that my excessive sweating would generate...  Kanayama Sensei bringing me a towel on several occasions... Inada Sensei and his personal attention to me in the dojo with the cups of water (which I didn't get to drink...!) and being smacked by him on a few occasions with the shinai for not having correct technique... traveling to the championships with the Sensei's and listening to Inada Sensei's favourite CD of Eric Clapton... thinking that I was going to be knocked unconcsious by Yamaguchi Sensei as I held the focus pad as he did repititions of mawashi-geri jodan... feeling sorry for Taka-san as he was on the end of a couple of "beatings" from me as Inada Sensei looked on and wondering where the blood that was on my dogi came from when I was finished... the attention that all of the Sensei's gave me during my training... being felt welcome and part of the dojo by the members... leading the line as senior on several occasions and leading the dojo-kun... the post competition private party for the Sensei's which I was invited along to and really made welcome... the nervous, anxious feeling as I headed to the dojo everyday and the relief and sense of achievement after each training session... going to Akirano-shi and staying with the Sobajima family... cycling to Yagi Sensei's dojo on the bicycle which was far too small for me... Angelo and Michiko and the kindness and support that they gave to me during my stay... their wedding party and being there with all the members and Sensei's from the Hombu Dojo...  Eating with Nick and all the salary men under the railway tracks... many many more memories and let's just say that it has been an unbelieveable worthwhile experience...

I'm a full believer in "what's for you won't pass you by"... I know that it is unfortunate that my stay in Japan was cut short but maybe this was just supposed to happen the way it did... I mentioned in my blog previosuly that I am now anxious about how I will be able to maintain the intensity in my training on a daily basis no wthat I have left Japan.. I know it's very difficult and almost impossible to generate that same level of intensity that makes the Hombu Dojo a really special place to train... But on a positive side I can't wait to share my experiences and new knowedge of my karate with other people here in Ireland through teaching in some form or another... I have two or three days work to do on my PhD thesis and then I am very lucky that I'll have some time to relax and plan the next phase of my life... Where do I go next.. what avenue do I decide to explore... Post-doctoral research in the U.S.A... second level teaching or university level teaching... karate.. is it time to set up my own dojo... Lots of decisions to be made but I'm looking forward to it!

Finally, I'd like to thank everybody that has followed this blog and that I have shared my experiences with..  Your support was especially important to me when I had "bad" days and it always drove me on again.. Thanks to the many people that left comments on my blog, on facebook and the many emails I recieved..  This blog was something that Frank at Scott Sensei's dojo in Dublin suggested to me that I should keep before he left Japan with the group in early February... I set out with the intention that I would tell people exactly how it was.. didn't matter how good or bad I was feeling.. I wanted to be as brutally honest as I could... I didn't want to paint a picture that training fulltime in the Hombu Dojo was all a really good, easy experience and that life in Japan was brilliant and easy to adapt to.. I hope you now understand and appreciate the full experience :-)

Since I started this blog I have almost 6,000 views so there were many many people follwoing my experience... In time when the situation in Japan settles down I would like to maybe do some sort of a fundraiser for the people in Japan.. I'm not sure where we can send this money exactly and what to do with it but I do know for example that one particular Sensei who had two of his grandparents killed by the tsunami and I'm sure in time we will all be able to relate to people who have been effected... I'm sure when things settle down and areas that need financial assiatnce are identified that maybe we can arrange some sort of a fundraiser...  So for the time being.. I would like to say thank you once again.. Until the next time :) 

Sunday March 13th

So on Sunday morning I packed up my last few bits and said goodbye to Kyoko (the house manager) at Hotel Fujimi..  Strange feelings as I was walking through Nippori on my way to the train station..  Such a great place, great people and I couldn't help but wonder what lies ahead for them.  Got the SkyLiner from Nippori station to Narita terminal 1 for the 45 minute train journey.  When I arrived at Narita it was incredibly packed.. Lots of people sleeping with blankets and cushions and it was obvious that they must have been stranded since Friday.  There were hundreds of people standing in queues waiting to check in for flights..  Even at the airport in the midst of all the chaos the Japanese people and staff were calm, collected and unbelievably respectful as they dealt with all the questions that passengers had..  Its sad to say it but the behaviour and manners of some "western" people at the airport really annoyed me.. For example:  at one of the restaurants in the airport there was this "western" lady there and she got some tea and a muffin or something... The Japanese ladies behind the counter were doing a great job dealing with everybody.  But this "western" lady got about 70 Yen change from her transaction and she stood there and held up the whole place looking to see what she could buy with her 70 Yen (about €0.50) because she was leaving the country.  When the Japanese lady told her that she didn't have enough to buy anything she stayed standing there asking what she should do with her money so... Very very annoying!

As I was waiting at the gate to board the Singapore Airlines flight the crew for the flight assembled.. It was obvious they didn't know each other and they started to greet each other... It really started to hit me that I was leaving Japan as I saw them greet each other by shaking each others hands.. After being immersed in Japan for the last two months and their culture of deep bowing while maintaining distance from each other... this shaking of hands and hugging seemed strange to me!  How weird is that?! 

Didn't really sleep on the flight from Narita to Singapore.. Couldn't help but think at times how am I going to maintain the level of intensity in my training that I have developed over the last two months..  I can't wait to go back training in Ireland but I'm also really eager to share my experiences in the dojo by doing some teaching.  Couldn't help but think of all the great people I had got to know in Japan and hope that they will be safe as everything unfolds there.  When I got to Singapore I got a room in a transit hotel in the airport terminal for 3 hours and had a shower there as well.  Ready for the next leg of my journey now.. A 14 hour flight to London Heathrow. 

Saunday March 13th

Got a few hours sleep last night.  I was wrecked..  All packed up now and almost ready to go.  My flight to Singapore appears to be on time.  Very mixed feelings over the last 48 hours.. Sometimes really nervous and afraid of what is going to happen next and other times thinking that maybe I'm over reacting.. Anyway.. I'm on my way home and I'm happy with my decision.  Lots of flying and waiting times ahead of me but will be glad to leave the ground in Japan later tonight.  Thanks again for all your comments and support.  Will update during my travels if possible.  Diarmaid